Calligraphy

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The Grand Bazaar – is massive with serpentine corridors going in all directions. It is clean, well lit, and feels like a mall that was not designed by a cookie cutter real estate developers.  

We visited the shop of an Armenian calligrapher, Nick Mendenyan who has developed a magnificent body of work, all on diffenbachia and caladium leaves that he imports from a greenhouse in Florida.  He dries the leaves in and then spends two months creating intricate designs in gold leaf and ink applied with brushes made of cat’s hair.  Striking, unique and wonderful…

 

The Bosporus

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The Bosporus Strait, a natural body of water 35 kilometers long connects the Black Sea with the Sea of Mamara.  One of the busiest shipping channels in the world it is flanked on both sides by thousands of years of history, castles, mosques, several universities, and homes both small and grand. Two long suspension bridge cross the straits joining Asia and Europe.

We took a ferry boat ride on the Bosporus this morning – a day surprisingly cool and dance of rain and clouds to making the water an ever changing shade of blue.  What the tourist literature doesn’t mention is the beautiful wooden sail boats still plying these waters.  My sailing friends would have loved them.

First Morning

Everyone says that the Turkish people are warm and friendly.  Venturing out early on this Sunday morning, most of the shops are still shuttered and there is the feeling of city not yet awake.  An elderly gentleman, leaning on his cane, sits outside on the sidewalk, watching Sally and I walking up the street.  I look him in the eye and say, “meharba”  His dark eyes light up and with surprising spryness he get up, extends his arms and with a wide grin, embraces me in greeting. 

Off to the Continental Divide

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Tomorrow evening I fly into the wild blue yonder, across the Greenwich mean, to the other Continental Divide - the Bosporus Straits that separate Europe and Asia.  On Saturday night hopefully I will be sitting outdoors having dinner on one continent with a dramatic view of the continent across the way.  Ruth, my Parking Goddess, has put in a good word for me with the internet gods over there, so if it all goes according to plan, there will soon be pictures and stories from Istanbul and Cappodocia.

 

Solstice Morning

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The first official day of summer arrived this morning, straight from central casting – cool dry air, warm sun, and brilliant blue sky with a three quarter moon setting in the west.  Padanaram harbor is a calm sheet of grey-black reflecting back brilliant white hulls and the breeze filling the air with honeysuckle and the music of rigging clanging.